Okutama Overdrive: Riding, Hiking, and a 41-Degree Climb!
Free at last! Escaping from Tokyo’s concrete jungle!
Some rides are about familiar comforts, hitting those favourite bends again and again. Others? They're about pushing the boundaries, adding new twists (literally and figuratively) to a classic route. This was one of those days. Nodoka and I aimed for the well-trodden Miyagase-Doshi-Okutama loop, but with some exciting new detours planned.
Setting off mid-day, we sliced through the Yokohama sprawl via the Hodogaya Bypass and Tomei, the city falling away behind us. Soon, we were breathing cleaner air by Miyagase Lake. A first for me: actually stepping inside the Toriibara Fureai House. Forget stale coffee; the highlight was a bizarrely captivating machine that assembled free souvenir bracelets! Who knew roadside stops offered free engineering marvels?
Bikes fired up again, we pointed them towards the Doshi area. The plan involved peeling off Route 24 North, aiming for the legendary twists that eventually funnel you towards Route 411. The roads tightened, the pace quickened, and the grins widened. We hit the Yamanashi "Fruit Line," a mandatory refuel stop. This time, a grape vendor caught our eye. Forget energy drinks; we powered up with red grape and 'mascot' smoothies. While we're far from grape sommeliers, the red grape version absolutely nailed it – intensely fruity, slightly complex with that subtle tannic edge. Pure, unadulterated grape goodness. Note to self: spotted another promising peach and grape stand down the road – already plotting the next visit.
By 3 PM, the clock was ticking against the descending sun. We pressed on, hitting Route 411 and letting the bikes flow through the curves leading towards Okutama. Deep in the woods, almost swallowed by the trees, we spotted a sign for warabi mochi. This hidden gem is whispered about among riders, known for using Okutama's famously pure spring water. We grabbed some for later – and yes, back home, it was refreshingly delicate and delicious, living up to the hype.
Continuing our Okutama exploration, we paused at the lake for the floating bridges. First, the Tozura bridge: metal, sturdy, ample parking, and a cool perspective walking out over the water. Then, the Mugiyama bridge: wooden, more rustic, definitely recommended for the feel, but be warned – parking is scarce! Both offer that slightly unnerving but fun bounce as you cross, perfect for stretching legs and grabbing photos.
Now, for the main course – or so we thought. We peeled off towards Route 206, the undisputed highlight of any Okutama ride. We’ve danced through these corners over a dozen times, and the asphalt ribbon never fails to deliver pure riding joy. Each turn flows, the bike feels alive... but today, 206 was just the appetizer for adventure. We diverted towards Kanoto Rock (神戸岩).
Kanoto Rock, aptly nicknamed "God's Rock Gate," is a short but exhilarating 10-minute gorge hike. We were climbing sturdy ladders bolted right next to a rushing waterfall, edging along narrow paths using chains embedded in the rock walls for balance. The air was cool, the sounds of water echoed off the towering cliffs – an incredible, slightly nerve-wracking, off-bike adrenaline rush.
Buzzing from the gorge, we remembered hearing about a nearby historical house with a rather unique access method. A short ride later, we found it: the Kobayashi Residence (小林家住宅). And the rumours were true! Access is via a tiny, incredibly steep monorail – the "Yamabiko-go" – boasting a staggering 41-degree gradient! Just sitting upright felt like defying gravity.
At the top, the reward: The Kobayashi Residence is a beautifully preserved traditional mountain farmhouse, designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Likely dating back to the Edo period, it's a stunning example of regional architecture (possibly Gassho-zukuri related), showcasing the tools and lifestyle of families who lived self-sufficiently in these mountains centuries ago. The steep monorail, initially installed for accessibility, now offers visitors both transport and incredible valley views. It’s a fascinating glimpse into history, perched high above the modern road.
With the sun finally painting the sky fiery orange and purple, reality beckoned. We reluctantly geared up, the day's mix of thrilling roads and unexpected explorations swirling in our minds. The ride home was bathed in the soft glow of twilight, each mile cementing the memory of a truly packed, diverse, and unforgettable day on two wheels. This wasn't just a loop; it was an adventure.
