Karuizawa Ride – Day 1: Twisties, Touges & a Sunset Scramble for Shelter
There’s a certain restlessness that grabs hold of a rider after a long tour. A few days back from our Golden Week blast to Yonezawa, and already the itch was back. The cure? A spontaneous escape to Karuizawa. The route was already mapped from a plan we never followed through on—so, with zero prep and max wanderlust, Nodoka and I fired up the bikes and rolled out at 7AM sharp.
She on her trusty Honda 400X. Me on the Yamaha FJR, a two-wheeled bullet train disguised as a sport tourer.
We slipped out of Yokohama like shadows through alleyways, ducking under the waking city’s radar. The Hodogaya Bypass led to the Tomei, which fed into the Ken-O Expressway—a soul-sucking slab that feels like a time machine when you’re pinning it. Before we knew it, we were in Ome. That’s where the fun began.
Most riders charge toward Route 299, but we took the road less traveled: Route 53 north. And oh man, what a call. Smooth twisties, barely any traffic, and enough elevation change to keep things spicy. Arima Dam popped into view like a screensaver, and on this quiet Friday morning, it was all ours. No Insta-bros, no drone buzz—just us, the bikes, and the view.
As 53 merged with 299, the road narrowed to a one-lane ribbon snaking through sleepy hamlets untouched by time. Somewhere near the junction of Route 462 and 45, Nodoka gave me a language lesson that left me cracking up:
“It’s Shimo-NI-ta, not Shimo-NE-ta. One’s a town. The other’s a dirty joke.”
Duly noted.
Riding Beneath the Fangs of Mt. Myogi
The clouds thinned just in time for Mt. Myogi to make its dramatic entrance. Jagged and fierce, it looked like it had been carved by a drunken god with a katana. We zigzagged along Route 254 to 51, then to the real gem: Route 196. Pro tip—ride 196 north to south for panoramic views of Myogi’s peaks. There’s a free parking spot up top, perfect for a photo op, or just catching your breath after those turns.
Next came Route 18 and a detour to Usui Touge—a legendary pass with legit historic vibes. We stopped at the massive Megane Bridge, the largest brick arch bridge in Japan. The thing oozes Meiji-era pride, and it's a must-ride stop for any history-loving motorcyclist.
Oops… Forgot to Book a Campsite
Reality hit us like a missed downshift: we hadn’t booked a place to sleep.
Some frantic phone scrolling later, Nodoka landed a spot—cheap, scenic, open... but check-in closed at 5 PM. Cue the mad dash. We inhaled a quick lunch at Okata-chaya, where the walls were plastered with decades of HOG chapter rides, then pointed the bikes uphill.
We rolled into the campsite with 10 minutes to spare. Not for a tent slot. Not even a site fee. Just to get a camping card. Classic Japan.
Annoyance turned to awe as the sun dipped behind the mountains, painting Mt. Arafune in gold and pink. Not a bad tradeoff for a little white card.
Nightfall Shenanigans and Wildlife Cameos
But the ride wasn’t over yet. We had to restock. That meant 30 minutes of downhill gravel gauntlet, dodging branches, washouts, and potholes big enough to swallow a Vespa. Coming back up in the dark turned into a mini nature documentary. Rabbits. Raccoons. Deer. And at least one mystery creature that moved way too fast to be anything cute.
By the time we zipped up our sleeping bags, the stars had come out in full force. The temperature dropped to a brisk 8°C, but we were too busy watching the cosmos dance overhead to care.
These are the moments we ride for. Not the checkpoints, not the stats—but the randomness, the landscapes, the laughter in our helmets, and the realization that even the best plans are no match for a good story.
