Hakone: A Motorcycle Paradise
Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint
Just a 90-minute blast southwest of Tokyo lies Hakone, a volcanic playground of twisty roads, stunning scenery, and soothing onsens. This mountain resort town has captivated visitors for centuries with its lush landscapes and rejuvenating waters. Legend has it that a miraculous hot spring emerged here in the 8th century, curing a smallpox epidemic and giving birth to Hakone Yumoto, a town renowned for its healing properties.
For motorcyclists, Hakone is a motorcycle theme park. Its volcanic terrain has sculpted a network of exhilarating curves, perfect for carving your favorite line. Iconic landmarks like the historic Hakone Sekisho checkpoint and the otherworldly Owakudani Valley offer pit stops for exploration and photo ops. And for those seeking the ultimate riding challenge, there’s a concentration of more than 8 twisty roads within a mere 15-kilometer radius. It's no wonder there's a biker-friendly rest stop aptly named "Bikers Paradise" at the heart of this thrilling region.
Get ready to twist the throttle, soak in the scenery, and unwind in the healing waters of Hakone. Your adventure awaits.
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Roads to Ride | History and Myths of Hakone | Hakone Sightseeing
Roads to Ride
731 Hakone Kintaro Line
Running north to south, connecting Ashigara Touge to the northern tip of Hakone on the 138, is route 731 aka Hakone Kintaro Line. This road passes through the forest of Mt Ashigara where the legendary Kintaro resided as a child wrestling with bears and uprooting trees.
At the beginning of Hakone Kintaro Line
The road is narrow with no lane median but the pavement quality is fairly new which makes for a very smooth ride. Just watch out for the big metal grates placed in the middle of some turns. What I love about this road when riding from north to south is that the ascent is almost like a rollercoaster ride with dips and turns that will make your stomach turn.
At the top is a parking lot overlooking the mountains making me feel as if I’m Kintaro having just conquered this challenging touge pass. Drop by Kintoki Shrine at the end of the line to see Kintaro's ax.
Route 732 Old Tokaido Nishi Umisaka
While the majority of traffic follows route 1 from Hakone-Yumoto to Lake Ashi, route 732 is a better option that’s filled with its famous hairpin turns.
Route 732 Old Hakone Pass with its famous hairpin turns
This road passes through the historic town of Hatajuku where you can see yosegi craftsman at work and even experience making yosegi yourself. Stop by the only remaining tea house from the Edo period that has continually served amazake for 13 generations. The tea house itself is a blast from the past with a thatched roof, wooden beams, and an irori (Japanese fire pit) inside. 732 will also conveniently drop you off at Lake Ashi where you’ll have easy access to sightseeing at Hakone Shrine and Hakone Sekisho.
Arnest Iwada Turnpike Hakone
This famous toll road starting in the northern end near Odawara is known for its sweeping turns and stunning overlooks of Sagami Bay. It’s been the home of many car drifters back in the day and has even been sponsored by Toyo Tires. Today, it’s filled on the weekends with high end luxury sports cars and motorcycles zipping through the smooth asphalt climbing up to Mt Daikan Observation Deck in the south where a majestic view of Mt Fuji awaits. Pay the motorcycle toll of 650 yen at the north gate and be whisked away to Biker’s Paradise at the end. Road open hours: 5:30am - 10:30pm.
75 Tsubaki Line
Also converging at Mt Daikan Observation Deck starting from the south at Yugawara is route 75, aka Tsubaki line. Tsubaki is the Japanese word for the camellia flower and this tight technical road is a fitting name for it as it almost rides like the intricate line patterns of the flower. Road conditions can be bumpy in some sections and watchout for fallen leaves and branches on the side of the road.
Ashinoko Skyline
Hugging the western ridge of Lake Ashi, running south-north from route 1 to Hakone Skyline, is Ashinoko Skyline. This 300 yen toll road has views of Mt Fuji on the west and Lake Ashi in the east. Yamabushi Pass Observatory has restaurants with a view of Lake Ashi while Shakushi pass and Mikuni pass overlooks Mt Fuji. This road is more for scenic driving than dragging knees, although it gets a little more interesting if you continue on to Hakone Skyline in the north. Price: 300 yen. Hours: 7:00 - 7:00pm
Hakone Skyline
Continuing north from Ashinoko Skyline is a short 5km ride on Hakone Skyline. While another toll road (260 yen), its stunning views surpass Ashinoko Skyline. Don't miss Hakone Ashinoko Observation Park for the best Lake Ashi panorama. I’ve ridden passed this park hundreds of times being too focused on riding that I was pleasantly surprised at the view when I recently stopped to take a look. Afterward, choose between the scenic Route 736 or the forested Route 401, both leading to Route 138. Hours: 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM (weekdays), 8:30 AM - 6:30 PM (weekends and holidays)
Route 1 (Mishima to Hakone) aka Sasahara Yamanaka bypass
Climbing out of Mishima city in the south towards Hakone is a two lane (in one direction, or a total of a 3 lane road because its a a single lane going down hill) sweeper. Long wide turns that switch back and forth make this a road too fun to stop at roadside attractions like the Mishima Skywalk, Japan’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge. I hope you’ve got enough pegs left to scrape on this one.
Route 138
138 runs east to west from Hakone Yumoto to Gotemba and acts as an access road to sightseeing attractions like Owakudani, Hakone open air museum, and Sengokuhara Suzuki grass fields. Beware of traffic jams especially on the weekends going towards Hakone Yumoto in the evenings as the congestion can pile up for kilometers! I recently got stuck in the pouring rain for over an hour on a Sunday afternoon just to get to Hakone-Yumoto!
History and Myths of Hakone
History of Sankinkotai and Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint
Twisting through Hakone’s scenic roads, motorcyclists often encounter a series of toll gates, a stark contrast to the open-road spirit. Interestingly, these modern checkpoints echo the historic Hakone Sekisho, an ancient gatekeeper controlling access to Edo.
Erected during the Edo period (1603-1867), Hakone Sekisho checkpoint was the Shogun's iron gate to the capital, Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Nestled on the Tokaido, the nation's main artery, it was a strategic chokepoint that demanded respect.
Central to the Sekisho's existence was the infamous sankin-kotai system. Daimyo, powerful regional lords, were forced to play a high-stakes game of feudal chess. Half the year in Edo, under the shogun's watchful eye, the other half back home, but with their families held hostage in the capital. A brilliant power play by the Shogun, it kept the daimyo broke, busy, and firmly under control.
The Sekisho was the enforcer. Samurai guards, stern and unyielding, scrutinized every traveler, from the lowliest peasant to the mightiest lord. Women, often underestimated, were subjected to the harshest inspections, their roles as potential messengers or secret carriers demanding vigilance. The checkpoint was a well-oiled machine, a complex web of bureaucracy and brute force, designed to maintain the shogunate's grip on power.
As you twist the throttle through Hakone, spare a thought for the countless souls who passed through this historic gateway. It's a stark reminder of a time when a single checkpoint held the fate of a nation.
Lake Ashi
Lake Ashi, a centerpiece of Hakone’s natural beauty, is also steeped in local lore. One of the most enduring legends revolves around the fearsome Kuzuryu, a nine-headed dragon said to have once terrorized the region.
According to folklore, a courageous monk named Mangan confronted the monstrous creature, ultimately subduing it and binding it to the lake's depths. In a pact forged under duress, the dragon agreed to spare the populace in exchange for annual offerings of red rice and beans, cast into the lake’s mysterious depths. Intriguingly, none of these offerings have ever resurfaced, adding an air of mystique to the legend.
A testament to this extraordinary tale is Kuzuryu Shrine, situated on the lake’s shore. Its iconic red torii gate, partially submerged in the water, marks the site of Mangan’s legendary confrontation.
Kintaro
The Hakone region is rich in folklore, with perhaps no legend as enduring as that of Kintaro, also known as Sakata no Kintoki. Raised amidst the untamed wilderness of Hakone, he possessed superhuman strength from a young age. Tales of his extraordinary feats, like wrestling bears and uprooting trees, are deeply woven into the region's tapestry.
Today, riders can explore the heart of Kintaro’s legend by following the Hakone Kintaro Line. The journey culminates at Kintoki Shrine, a place of reverence dedicated to this legendary figure. Here, visitors can marvel at a replica of Kintaro's iconic axe, a tangible connection to the folklore that has captivated generations
Hakone Sightseeing
Hakone Sekisho (Checkpoint)
Hakone Sekisho was a crucial checkpoint during the Edo period. Located on the Tokaido Road, it controlled access to Edo, the shogun's capital. Its primary functions included security, controlling the movement of daimyo (feudal lords) through the sankin-kotai system, and collecting taxes. Today, reconstructed sections offer a glimpse into its historical significance.
Lake Ashi
Lake Ashi, a volcanic lake formed over 3,000 years ago, is the heart of Hakone. Its shores are lined with cafes and shops, and you can even take a pirate ship cruise across the lake.
Kintoki Shrine
Seek the spirit of a legendary hero at Kintoki Shrine. Hidden amidst Hakone's serene embrace, this sacred space is dedicated to Kintarō, the mythical child of immense strength. A replica of his legendary axe stands as a tangible connection to this powerful figure, inviting visitors to step into a world of folklore and reverence.
Hakone Shrine & Kuzuryu Shrine
Visitors travel to Hakone shrine with it’s red tori gate standing in Lake Ashi to pray for happy marriage, wealth, and safe travels. An aux shrine was built next to Hakone Shrine in honor of the 9 headed dragon that used to terrorize the town but is now a guardian of it.
Hakone Karakuri Museum
Learn about the traditional Japanese marquetry technique known as Yosegi Zaiku while unleashing your inner artisan making a coaster or a trick box.
Owakudani
Owakudani is an active volcanic zone that was created 3,000 years ago when Mt. Hakone last erupted. Walk the short trails where sulfurous fumes and steams from hot springs can be experienced. Don’t forget to try their black eggs that have been cooked in Owakudani’s hot springs. It’s said that eating 1 egg adds 7 years to your life! Look at the google map for tips on parking and how to get there.
Amasake Tea House
At the most difficult portion of the Hakone pass is Amasake Tea House, the only remaining tea house from the Edo period in the area. Try amazake (fermented rice drink) that has been handed down unchanged through 13 generations from the Edo period.
Hakone Open Air Museum
Immerse yourself in a world where art and nature collide at Hakone Open Air museum
Biker’s Paradise
A well known pit stop for motorcyclists with food, merchandise, festivals/events, and motorcycle rental services. Conveniently located at the intersection of all the twisty roads.
Sengokuhara Suzuki Grassfield
Lose yourself walking in an ocean of swaying pampas grass. Peak season is in the fall when the grass turns a golden color.
